450 Cummins Isl Motorhome Side Radiator Where Is the Drain
2012 Tuscany 42RQ tag
2005 Silverado 2500 w/ piggy back golf cart
Not really needed as far as I know and have been told and have found reading.
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
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Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AMP Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad
Jim@HiTek wrote:
Doesn't sound like Cummins shop is interested in doing the job.
Not really needed as far as I know and have been told and have found reading.
Would be interested in reading recommendations that do not call for coolant change after 6-7 years, unless one of the new generation coolants AND it has been tested.
Coolant is cheap compared with eroding cylinder liners.
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240
Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/
2019 Grand Design Solitude 384GK 5th wheel. Glen Allen, VA
I did my own on my Cummins back in '07 or so following the guide in the manual. Wasn't that difficult or expensive.
You can certainly do it yourself a lot cheaper but if you are one who don't like to get your hands dirty, then, 'pay the piper' and smile.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB
John
2015 Born Free Royal Splendor on a Ford 550
2018 Rubicon
Boo Boo a Mi Kie
42' 36' & 34 Foretravels sold
2007 Born free 24 sold
2001 Wrangler sold
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland sold
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Again, we don't even know what kind/chemistry coolant we are discussing. With the "regular green stuff" (low silicate for diesel with added SCA) life is half or less of the newer generation OAT-based coolants.
Guess my point is that coolant is a lot cheaper than chancing engine failure.
From an article I wrote many years ago for the FMCA Magazine:
Cooling System 101
I just changed out my coolant and replaced all water hoses and belts. Thought I would share the experience.
Coolant needs to be changed per manufacturer's instructions (usually every 3 years for regular low silicate for diesel with added SCA coolant). Additionally the SCA, pH and freeze point need to be checked on regular intervals using SCA test strips and SCA added as needed. The test strips are inexpensive and easy to use. When either the time lapses (time starts when coolant is installed in cooling system, NOT when purchased) or testing reveals an out-of-line conditions like pH or freeze point, it is time to change it. You can avoid all the testing and SCA adding, and go to 6 year change intervals by going to an Extended Life Coolant and get better cooling system protection as well. Whichever coolant you choose, most of the steps are the same. The job is reasonably time consuming TO DO RIGHT, but low-tech.
The new-generation OAT-based coolants such as Caterpillar ELC and Fleetguard ES Complet-OAT have a longer life-- generally in the 6 year range with no testing or adding of extenders unless over 300,000 miles have been driven. A big problem with these excellent coolants-- lots of techs are not chemists-- they see a coolant filter and automatically run grab a filter-- often with units of SCA. This is a good idea for the regular low silicate coolants, but are just a contaminant to OAT-based coolants.
OK, so you are going to change coolant. First step is to determine your total cooling system capacity. Your chassis maker or coach maker, not your engine manufacturer is the proper source. Then buy enough coolant (concentrate, not pre-dilute) to make up 50% of that volume. If going back with a coolant that requires additional SCA, purchase that as well. Also purchase 1.5 times system capacity of distilled water for a final flush plus final fill (50%). Also a good idea to change the engine thermostat and thermostat gasket as these are a wearing component and it involves very little more work while you are there. I know Caterpillar recommends thermostat (they call them regulators) every 3 years.
Turn dash heater to full hot for the rest of the procedure—fan off. With the engine cold or at least cool, drain coolant. On some, there is a drain ****. On others, pull the lower radiator hose. Two Rubbermade 10 gallon storage bin lined with black trash sacks so they don't get dirty work well. At the end of the whole process, use a coffee can and funnel to pour old coolant into new coolant/water containers for recycling. Our city maintenance shop recycles coolant for free.
Refill cooling system with tap water. IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove any air lock from the thermostat housing. Some systems have a hose set up for this—on ours I just loosen the coolant line to the air pump and bleed the air out. Allow engine to warm up (using the cruise control to select idle speed of 1,000-1,100 speeds this up). Run for about 10 minutes after regular temperature is reached. If the temp gauge does not rise as normal, you likely have an air block and need to bleed the thermostat housing. Allow engine to cool 20-30 minutes and drain again. Repeat until the effluent color is clear.
At this point, if this is the first coolant change on a 2-3 year old coach and you are not changing coolant brands/types, skip right to "Last rinse". For older systems, contaminated systems or when switching types of coolant, add a Cooling System Cleaner. Follow the directions. Run, allow engine to cool, drain and again flush until effluent is clear. The flushing is markedly sped up by pulling off the heater hose (usually 5/8" to ¾" lines) going to dash heater/motor-aid water heater, etc from the water pump. Put a hose nozzle in the hose and let it run until it comes out clear. Run the engine to temperature at least once with tap water.
If your hoses are over 5-6 years old, this is a good time to change them as well (before last rinse). Same for thermostat(s).
Last rinse is with distilled water. At $.85/gal at Walmart, it is silly to skip this step and leave your system full of high-mineral content water (there will be several gallons of residual water that you can not easily remove). Run engine for 10 minutes after getting to operating temperature. Cool and drain. Also drain and flush your coolant overflow container and refill with new coolant/distilled water.
Add the proper amount of Coolant CONCENTRATE (NOT PRE-DILUTE) to make 50% of cooling system capacity. So for a cooling system with 20 gallons capacity, add 10 gallons of Coolant CONCENTRATE (plus 1/2 overflow container capacity). Top off with distilled water to achieve your 50/50 mixture—it doesn't matter if you only have to add 1 gallon or 10 of distilled water, you KNOW you have the proper 50/50 mixture.
This is also a good time to clean the OUTSIDE of the radiator/after-cooler whether you have rear or side radiator. On rear radiator, most if the debris will be on the FRONT of the after-cooler (accessed from under the bed). On side radiators, most debris is on the outside of the after-cooler (side of coach). If it is just dirt, a hose and regular nozzle is all you need. If greasy or oily, use Joy liquid (dish washing detergent) in a spray bottle. Be SURE to rinse it off completely. You need to insure that the perimeter is as clean as the center. Ya, I know it is easier to see the center, but the fan blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter.
Check belts while you are in there.
Carl
Pigman & Piglady
2013 Tiffin Allegro Bus 43' QGP
2011 Chevy Silverado 1500
SMI Air Force One toad brake
Street Atlas USA Plus
I have a Cat. The ELC is good for more miles than I'll put on the coach in several lifetimes....6 years for aging, though. As others have said, it's not a hard job, just time consuming and low tech.
"Second star to the right and straight on 'til morning." Captain Kirk in Star Trek VI 'The Undiscovered Country'
2007 39K Winnebago Journey "The Enterprise"
Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4
ppine wrote:
In the old days cars wore out around 100,000 miles or a little more. People did not change the coolant and sometimes ran straight water in the radiator. It was common for radiators to plug up and overheat engines. In 1969, I returned from a summer trip of around 8,000 miles in a 1957 Chevy. It overheated and quit within 100 miles of home. We removed the radiatior and had it boiled out. Now I change the coolant like manufr recommend.
Indeed. Manufacturers back in the 70's thru early 80's regularly sold vehicles with only distilled water in the radiators. Owners would later flush their systems only to then add regular tap water to the radiator. Not too mention many of the vehicles sold didn't even have recovery bottles. So when on the road if water need to be added guess what was added?
Tap water.
I believe it was sometime in the mid 80's manufacturers got their game together and decided on making coolant use standard practice.
1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm
P-30 chassis 7.4L 454 TBI 58,301 miles and counting....(as of 06/08/19)
VIN# 1GBJP37N4R3314754
Tampa Bay
'07 American Tradition Cummins ISL
'14 Honda CRV
2006 F-550, Crew cab, 4x4 w/factory bed getting 12 mpg @ 50,000 miles
2006 Lance 1191
2006 Wells Cargo 14' Cycle Wagon
2017 Grand Design 5th wheel with EezTire TPMS
2017 F-450 4x4 crew cab King Ranch
2003 Damon Ultrasport 3677
timjet wrote:
On my '07 Cummins ISL the coolant change is every 72 months with an extender added at 36 months.
A caution. Many of the OAT-based coolants call for an extender after 36 months. And, that advice is correct for an OTR truck piling up 100,000 miles a year.
Is is NOT accurate for a motorhome only doing a few thousand miles a year. In fact, Caterpillar when back and changed their slide presentation on RV maintenance to omit the extender recommendation for Caterpillar ELC. So their ELC (and likely all other new-generation coolants of the same chemistry are "6 years, zero maintenance".
Unfortunately, the total service charge does not detail the flush / refill, but maybe it will give you some ideas.
Click on http://newmarkountrystar.com/ then select "Our Coach", scroll down to the Freightliner Service Invoice link.
450 Cummins Isl Motorhome Side Radiator Where Is the Drain
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